There are times when, in painting, you want to add a little highlight to water but don't want to risk ruining work already done. In these cases, a stencil can be very handy but you don't want to bother to make one at the time, you need to have one in stock, as it were.
Bear in mind that you don't need to use all of a stencil, when just a bit will suffice. You may want to add some sparkle effects to a water stencil too -( two narrow ovals to make the 'cross' with a round bit in the middle, select all and weld).
So, how best to make these stencils? We all know that highlights work best when they look realistic, calling for more random than regular shapes but drawing each one is going to take forever! Well, if you watch my video, that problem will go up in a puff of smoke. The answer is sooooo easy, you will kick yourself.
As long as you have Silhouette Studio and a Cameo or Portrait, it will probably only take you a few minutes to make your own unique stencil.
I use acetate document folders to make my stencils. They are cheap, available everywhere, tough, washable and cut easily. I just use the setting for Stencil material on the Cameo. If you are concerned about stencils lifting, either put temporary spray mount on the back of it. or use weights on the stencil to stop it moving.
For the airbrushers among you, random wavy shapes that are used as stencils for making flames, work quite well (if put in the right direction) for making ripples in water too.
STORAGE OF STENCILS
The easiest way to store them is to put them in appropriately sized pocket binders. Write in marker on the pocket, what the stencil is for or include a copy of the painted stencil. If you have lots of them, use tabs to separate into types or subjects.
If you don't do that but just shove them in a drawer, not only will you forget what you have but you will forget you even made them...